Nelson and Tasman

My favourite South Island Beach is Kaiteriteri in Tasman around an hours drive from Nelson. The golden sands and native bush that reaches right down to the sea make this a popular and easy access beach. Swimming here is quite safe, no hidden rips or dangers. There are numerous places to stay and explore. For mountain bikers there is the free mountain bike park with tracks suitable for all ages. The waters of the bay are very clear and a variety of fish can be seen when swimming. At the Eastern end of the beach is a river that is very popular for swimming.

Beautiful Kaiterteri Beach, safe swimming, cafes and restaurants across the road and the departing point for Abel Tasman tours and walks

Driving to Kaiteriteri and the Able Tasman Nation Park you will pass through the country town of Motueka. The park has a variety of day and over overnight walks. There are water taxis available to take you to a choice of bays and you can walk back, or vice versa, take a walk and water taxi out. There are also a number of kayak hire companies right on the beach.

Out on the water you may see dolphins, seals and the occasional whale.

The actual start of the Able Tasman Track is from Marahau. When leaving Motueka township you head towards Takaka and Collingwood. There are two ways to get there, first, take a hard right just over the small bridge past the football grounds at the sign post that says Kaiteriteri. This will take you via a very windy and hilly road through Kaiteriteri beach and is not recommended for large towing vehicles past Kaiteriteri. Second, you turn sharp left at the turnoff to Kaiteriteri then a quick sharp right. This road is also steep and windy but quite suitable to all vehicles. There are camping grounds, bed and breakfasts and chalet type accommodation available.

Drive to the end of the road and you will see a large car park and a group of small buildings. Over the very busy January holiday season the car park is often quite full. Inside the buildings are details on the bays and walking tracks. The actual Able Tasman Track starts inside the building on the left and you commence by walking across a low wooden walkway over the swamp and then onto the track itself.

From the track looking down on some bays you can see stingrays and sometimes seals.

Near the end of the roadway just before you go over a small one lane bridge is an old bus set up as a takeaway food bar. They make fabulous burgers, fries etc and is a must do. It is known as Fat Tui’s and is highly recommended.

Another very popular spot between Marahau and Kaiteriteri is Split Apple Rock. You will see the access point sign posted from the road side. There is not much parking available, so be prepared to walk for a wee way. The walking track down is well established and quite steep in places but is not too bad. The walk down takes around 10 minutes. There is a toilet at the bottom. The beach is great and at low tide you can explore the caves at the western end. The name derives from a large apple shaped rock split in two. This is a popular spot for kayakers as it is only 30-40 mins by kayak from Kaiteriteri. The beach is very safe for all swimmers.

The road to Takaka takes you over the Marble Mountains. This is a steep and twisting road going up and over the Takaka Hill. It is approx 25 klm’s from one side to the other. It is suitable to tow all sized vehicles over, but will give your towing vehicle a good workout. I have seen a number of broken down vehicles on this hill and in winter it is notorious for ice and sometimes snow.

There are a large number of very interesting places to visit.

Firstly, at the Eastern side of the hill, right at the bottom is a road off to the left. It is free to visit this site. The road will take you to the “Source of the Riwaka” , approx 8 klm’s and is an absolute must see.

There is a large car park and the walk is very easy and quite short. The water comes straight out of the mountain and is very cold, all year round. The road in is sealed, but narrow, so if you are towing a large caravan take care. Do not try and turn right into this road coming down the hill from Takaka as it is very dangerous. Head towards Motueka and turn around where it is safe. Also if you are a large vehicle or you are towing do not try and turn left and head up the hill as there is not enough space to get out and around without crossing the centre line which is just too dangerous.

The water from within the mountain finds its way out here. The temperature of the water is low. You can take a swim if you are brave enough. The walk from the carpark is very easy and only takes 5-10 minutes.

Secondly near the top of the hill on the Southern Side is Hawkes Lookout. There is no charge to visit this site.On the Northern Side are Ngarua Caves and another must do. There is a fee to go through the caves, however the view from the driveway entrance to the caves is a very popular stop off point as you can see right over to Nelson. The caves have a small cafe.

Thirdly, there is Howard’s Hole. Again, this is free to visit, but the road in is all gravel, very narrow and twisting, not suitable for caravans. The hole is enormous and the walkway is very pleasant, but keep your children well away from the edge as there are no fences or safety barriers. See this website for details, Howard‘s Hole. There are toilets and notice boards with maps and guides.

Fourthly, from the car park at Howards Hole there are a number of Mountain Bike and Hiking Tracks. My favourite is the Rameka Down Hill. The start of the ride is a little uphill that can take 20-30 mins depending on your fitness, then it winds around the side of the hill before a steep decline down to the main road to Takaka. This ride is suitable for most riders, the younger and less experienced may have to walk in a few places, but I don’t believe the track to be dangerous. The last part of the track uses the gravel unsealed road, however there are also a few side tracks that are well worth doing. Allow 2-3 hours for the whole ride, longer if you are walking of course.

The world famous Abel Tasman National Park stretches right along the coast on the eastern side of the Takaka Hill. There are a number of short walks and longer multi day walks with access via foot, vehicle or water taxi. The best place to find all the park information and catch shuttles is in Kaiterteri.

A typical view on one of the numerous walking tracks

Mapua is a very small seaside village just 20 minutes drive from Richmond near Nelson. This seaside village is home to a growing number of residents and art and craft shops, restaurants and outdoor activities. On the local wharf are cafes, restaurants, ice cream shops and craft and art stores. Swimming from the wharf is very popular but be very careful as the tidal flows are very strong.

From Mapua you look out over Rabbit Island which is a favourite destination for locals and visitors. There are long sandy beaches with safe swimming, trails for mountain bikers which are all flat, wide and easy to negotiate. There is a ferry boat operating most days that will carry walking and biking passengers as the bike trail allows for a full circuit and multiple destinations.

The river estuary is very fast flowing with tidal flows, so be very careful swimming and boating.

Nestled against  the estuary is a fabulous camp ground, one of the largest I have ever seen. It is well laid out with tent sites, powered sites, cabins, motel units and beachfront houses. The facilities are older, but very clean and the staff bend over backwards to help and make you feel welcome. Be aware that this camp is clothing optional February and March.

There is a swimming pool, sauna, spa, out door and covered BBQ facilities. We prefer staying on one of the waterfront powered sites. There are two options for these sites and the preferred ones are on the right hand side of the cafe/bar.

Some of the Nelson/Tasman district’s best roads are off the main highway. Upper Moutere is a quaint little village just 20 klm’s approx west of Richmond. To get there, you drive west from Richmond towards Takaka/Golden Bay/Motueka. As you pass over the long narrow Appleby Bridge, take the second turn on the left. It is well signposted. Follow the road signs to Upper Moutere and just through the village on the right is New Zealand’s Oldest Pub, the Moutere Inn.

The Inn offers full meals, snacks, drinks, plunger coffee and accommodation in an authentic last century building.

A very little known hideaway is an American Bison Farm in the back-blocks of Wakefield. An appointment is required to view this farm, so ask a local to help guide you, but don’t be surprised if even they don’t know about it.

The region boasts what I consider to be some of the countries best cycle trails. Nelson/Tasman has poured heaps of funding into developing hundreds of klms of trails which include, bridges, tunnels, boardwalks, interconnecting routes which are richly supported by cafes, cycle shops, restaurants and bars.

The trails allow riding in loops as much as “there and back” and there are so many on offer, keen riders can spend weeks in the area exploring not only the trails, but also the myriad of side attractions.

A couple of my favourite rides are the Kaiterteri Mountain Bike Park, the Richmond Estuary to Rabbit Island and the Belgrove section which includes Spooners Tunnel.

I could write forever on these rides, but just click on the links to find out more about these rides. Below are a few of our pictures of these rides.Southern Entrance to Spooners TunnelSouthern Entrance to Spooners Tunnel on the Great Taste Tasman Cycle Trails An absolute essential items, torch or headlamps. It’s 1.3 klms from end to end. One of the many Tasman Great Taste Cycle Trail Bridges. This one on the Richmond to Rabbit Island section which includes a long estuary board walk specially designed for cycles.